Marché de Noël d’Amiens: Northern France’s biggest Christmas Market

Amiens by night, Amiens by bike

In less than a month, 23 November to be exact, the 2012 Marché de Noël d’Amiens will be open. While I appreciate that it often seems that preparations for Christmas start earlier and earlier each year, it does seem to me that the Christmas market in Amiens is something different, not least because it is not one big commercial trap. I go each year, usually just before Christmas, in the late afternoon just before it closes early evening. It is a wonderful evening out and one I can recommend, for the whole family as well. Continue reading

Le Gros Horloge, Rouen

Medieval buildings in Rouen

Medieval Splendour on the Streets of Rouen

For those who like Medieval architecture, the city of Rouen is a must. Together the many timber-framed and religious buildings create a wonderful atmosphere on the streets of a very modern city. But one of the most striking surprises is Le Gros Horloge set in a 13th century building and next to a 14/15th century belfry. The splendid clock itself dates back to the 14th century, and is among the oldest working clocks in Europe. Continue reading

Le Treport Fishing Village

Basse Copette is situated in the Bresle Valley, it is the gravels of the Bresle River that are removed for glass industry. About half an hour downstream of Basse Copette, the Bresle River flows into La Manche, or the English Channel, between the towns of Mers-les-Bains and Le Treport.

The lighthouse at Le Treport

Le Phare du Treport

Le Treport was once a popular seaside destination for the French royal family during the reign of Louis-Philippe (1830s and 1840s) when the Palace at nearby Eu was the king’s summer residence. The Parisian bourgeoisie were soon to follow, and as the town became a popular destination a number of seaside villas were built (most of which were destroyed during World War II). Louis-Philippe was an ardent Anglophile and was on very good terms with Queen Victoria. Although the term “Entente Cordiale” usually refers to official agreements made between the English and the French in 1904, the term was first used in 1844 following Queen Victoria’s first state visit to Louis-Philippe’s palace in Eu in 1843. There is much in the area that marks the Queen’s visit, including the ‘Queen Victoria Bar’. The National Navy Museum in Paris has a painting by Louis Gabriel Eugène Isabey showing Queen Victoria’s royal yacht, HMY Victoria and Albert – a twin paddle steamer, docked in the port of Le Treport. Continue reading

Official: it is Winter

Winter arrives at Basse Copette, a perfect excuse for a winter break in Upper Normandy

And off they go ...

As my guests will attest, Basse Copette really is a small rural hamlet seemingly out in the middle of nowhere. Where, I sometimes think, time has forgotten us and gone rushing on ahead. Instead of rushing forward, on to yet another crucial meeting, another must see event, the passing of time at Basse Copette is marked by its inhabitants in a much more calm manner, almost daily in their day-to-day activities. Most of my neighbours are in their late 60s and into their 80s, and have lived here for most if not all of their lives. Lives that really are governed by the changing seasons; and I mean more than adding a few extra layers during winter. After seven years here (now the second longest I have ever lived in one place) I am starting to become more aware of this myself. And I was reminded of it yesterday when the cows came down off the slopes of the hills behind Basse Copette. Continue reading

French Christmas Markets: Amiens

French Christmas markets ... in France

French Christmas markets ... in France

French Christmas markets are a great part of the build up to Christmas, and the best way to experience one is of course in France itself. The city of Amiens hosts the biggest and most spectacular one in northern France. From the last weekend in November to just after Christmas the streets of the city are filled with over 120 individual stalls and all sorts of rides and attractions to amuse the younger visitors. And during the month of December, the façade of the Cathedral is lit up to appear as it would have done in medieval times. So if it is a quiet romantic few days away you are looking for in the lead up to Christmas, or a pre-Christmas treat for the children, a weekend Christmas break is a must. Only 35 minutes away is the small hamlet of Basse Copette. On offer, luxury but affordable bed and breakfast or self catering accommodation, for a weekend or a few days in the week. A Christmas market break at Basse Copette offers a great deal. Continue reading

Abbaye de Jumièges

Abbaye de Jumièges

Abbaye de Jumièges

Sometimes, particularly during busy periods, I get the feeling I do not get out much. The upside is that I get good reports from my guests of the local attractions I have not seen; and after 5 years there are still many. This was the case with the Abbaye de Jumièges: recent guests visited the ruined Abbey on a day out to Rouen from Basse Copette and returned saying what a great time they had had there. It is very definitely well worth a visit. The Abbey is widely said to be ‘the most beautiful ruin in France’, and occupation of the site dates back to the 7th Century, and in its heyday was the biggest Benedictine monastery in the West. The Abbey is on a large island formed by a loop in the Seine River, in the town of Jumièges. The Seine river has many of these loops (boucles) before it enters the sea, and this area has been designated the Boucles de la Seine Normande Regional Park. Continue reading

France Christmas Markets: Rouen

France for Christmas Markets

France for Christmas Markets

France has wonderful Christmas markets, and the Marché de Noël in Rouen has a most spectacular backdrop: the cathedral that Monet has made so famous. Directly in front of the Cathedral is one of a couple of skating rinks available, which is surrounded by numerous stalls selling all sorts of drinks (of course there is mulled wine) and food. Then scattered throughout the streets of this older part of the city are various stalls selling all sorts of things that make great gifts. Most Marchés de Noël start during the last weekend of November and go through to the first week of January. Basse Copette is close to two great French Christmas Markets: Rouen and Amiens, and on offer are inclusive 3-day breaks to give you the opportunity to enjoy both! Bring the children, or as most couples do, take a break from the maddening rush that is the lead up to Christmas and relax at Basse Copette. Continue reading

Thiepval Monument to the Missing of the Somme

Thiepval Monument

Thiepval Monument

One of the most moving monuments for the First World War is, I believe, that monument at Thiepval dedicated to the ‘missing of the Somme. The Franco-British Memorial at Thiepval is an impressive memorial some 45 metres high and visble for miles around. It was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens and commemorates the 73 367 men, known as the Missing of the Somme, who have no known grave today. The names of these soldiers are inscribed on the 16 pillars that form the base of the structure. And so this monument provides a focus for the many families who have no grave to visit. Buried adjacent to the monument are a number of British and French soldiers in unmarked graves, just a tiny fraction of the missing of the Somme who fell between July 1915 and March 1918 who have no known grave. Continue reading

Basse Copette for Bird Lovers

Experience the park by horse drawn carriage

Experience the park by horse drawn carriage

La Baie de Somme is an estuarine nature reserve over 3000 hectares in size. Just one part of this coastal reserve is Le Parc Marquenterre, an essential migratory stop for thousands of birds each year. And with the great diversity of natural habitats, including freshwater and saltwater marshes, dunes, meadows and wooded areas, the area is also home to a large number of amphibians, insects and mammals. Visitors are free to follow a number of marked out paths, or take a guided tour, on foot or by horse-drawn carriage, to discover the remarkable bio-diversity of the park. There are two main footpaths, one for an easier and shorter ‘discovery’ walk, the other a longer ‘nature trail’, with 14 observation posts and observation blinds that look out across fresh water and salt water marshes, as well as reed marshes. Here visitors are invited to observe birds such as egrets, greylag geese during migration, wintering or nesting in the area. Continue reading

Oceanarium at Boulogne-sur-Mer

Gite Pool Normandy

Oceanarium Touch Pool

On 1 March 2009, Nausicaa, an amazing oceanarium in Boulogne-sur-mer, had its 11 millionth visitor. The oceanarium has been open for 17 years, and makes a great effort with a varied programme of events to raise awareness about the seas and their resources, to capture the imagination of the deep for visitors of all ages. There are over 35 000 animals there, from sea lions to sharks, in some 4,5 million litres of water and displayed in 5000 square meters of exhibitions and aquariums. Treat your children to the unique experience of petting the stingrays in the touch pool! The touch pool is a truly unique experience. In the pool there are pollack, cod, dogfish, turbot and stingrays, all swimming at eye level for both adults and children. If you put your hand in the water and move it slightly, the stingrays come over and rub against it. These fish also lift their head out of the water and allow you to touch them. Continue reading