After a particularly heavy but rare snowfall, December 2010

Although winter is very definitely a bit quieter at Basse Copette, I still do welcome guests for a long weekend, or a midweek winter break. The Bresle Valley has a stark beauty all of its own, and when its not too cold and you can avoid the hunters, it is a wonderful area to take a stroll and return to a roaring fire. Although most attractions are closed during the winter months (Monet’s Garden opens again in April), there are a number of places that are open, albeit with restricted hours (Le château Rambures).

Winter is also a time for me to catch up. This is not only a time when I get to make some necessary repairs, it is also when I get a long enough period between guests to be able to continue my programme of renovation and restoration. And I have just finished the bathrooms in the cottage.

The cottage has two bathrooms (rather than one large one, I opted for two entirely separate bathrooms), both identical in all respects. They are the same size (to the centimetre), and both are fitted the same, with a shower, hand basin and a toilet. (As an aside, I must mention the great water pressure, and the hot water. The local water tank is close by, and so at Basse Copette has a great water pressure – no trickling showers here!)

With a recent break in between guests, I have just refitted the bathrooms. I stripped them back entirely, removed all fixtures and fittings, gave the rooms a deep clean, and then redecorated and put the various fixtures back together. I am particularly pleased with the new colour schemes, they both look much brighter and fresher than they did before. (I should admit to having some help in choosing the colour scheme – thank you Ann.) I have added two photographs that I quickly snapped before the arrival of the next set of guests last Saturday to the photogallery for the gîte.

As 2012 draws to a close it is time to start reflecting on the year. I have not calculated how many guests this year were returning guests, but I expect the percentage to be quite high. Two couples have each returned three times and one of these already have two visits booked for next year, another couple who have returned each year since 2008 visited twice this year. It is not only wonderful to see guests again, it is an honour.

Just this last weekend I had guests who stopped over at Basse Copette last year on their way from Worcestershire to the Loire for their summer holiday, and back again. This time they added a long weekend break in Normandy to the end of a half-term break in Paris. Although it certainly did not seem like a year and more since I saw them last.

Thank you Thomas for another wonderful stay, you really are an exceptional host! As ever the food has been exceptional, and we’ve really appreciated all the extra touches – especially the ‘trick or treat’ bag. We look forward to returning next year!Very Best wishes. Neil, Donna & Alex

And they have indeed booked for next year!

Thank you for your kind words – It was a pleasure to welcome you back and I look forward to seeing you again in 2013.
Thomas

Amiens by night, Amiens by bike

In less than a month, 23 November to be exact, the 2012 Marché de Noël d’Amiens will be open. While I appreciate that it often seems that preparations for Christmas start earlier and earlier each year, it does seem to me that the Christmas market in Amiens is something different, not least because it is not one big commercial trap. I go each year, usually just before Christmas, in the late afternoon just before it closes early evening. It is a wonderful evening out and one I can recommend, for the whole family as well.

Amiens has a great evening atmosphere, throughout the year (with perhaps one exception, as I discovered early on, and that is New Year’s Eve) – but evenings in Amiens are even more magical during December. This particular Marché de Noël is said to be the biggest in northern France. Besides the usual stalls in their Christmas-styled huts, there are also a range of Christmas themed rides for people of all ages. I suppose like most markets these days there is the odd stall here and there that sells what some might consider ‘cheap tat’, but these are in a minority. Overall a great many stalls, coming from all over France – and even further afield, in 2011 there was a stall from Quebec selling maple syrup and related products – sell a wide range of gastronomic treats and other interesting items that make for seasonal, festive presents and ‘stocking fillers’.

The city of Amiens takes great pride in their street decorations, and these along with a ‘glass’ of steaming mulled wine help to take the edge off the winter’s chill. When the stalls shut up shop for the day at 19h30, get a refill on your mulled wine and head to the cathedral. Here you will be able to see the amazing sound and light show on the cathedral façade, that very successfully gives a good impression of what the front of the cathedral looked like in Medieval times. This spectacular show adds further colour to the cheerful street atmosphere.

The photographs below are ones that I took last year on 23 December.

During December at Basse Copette I offer a midweek or weekend Christmas Break, all-inclusive, B&B or self catering. Basse Copette is ideally situated half way between Rouen and Amiens, allowing guests to visit the Christmas markets in both cities … for more information, click here.

Medieval Splendour on the Streets of Rouen

For those who like Medieval architecture, the city of Rouen is a must. Together the many timber-framed and religious buildings create a wonderful atmosphere on the streets of a very modern city. But one of the most striking surprises is Le Gros Horloge set in a 13th century building and next to a 14/15th century belfry. The splendid clock itself dates back to the 14th century, and is among the oldest working clocks in Europe.

The clock’s movement was created in 1389, and installed (in the same year) in the belfry, which also houses the bells set by the clock. The faces of the clock are mounted on a Renaissance arch typical of its time, and constructed between 1527 – 1529. The opulence of this clock is indicative of how wealthy Rouen was during the Medieval period.

‘Le gros horloge’ – Europe’s oldest, working Medieval clock

The two photographs directly above and below this paragraph show each of the two sides of the clock. The most recent programme of restoration began in 1997 and completed in 2003, and a museum enabling people to see the working of the clock opened in December 2006 (see details below).

The ‘other side’ of the Medieval clock

Now anyone who knows their French, and more specifically when to use le and la, will wonder why I am using le instead la, because a clock in French is a feminine word, not a masculine one – so une horloge, not un horloge. Why Le Gros Horloge then? Quite simply because a clock was a masculine noun up until the 18th Century.

The golden clock-face has some rich astronomical symbolism

Typical of clocks of its time, the faces of this particular timepiece is made more interesting with astronomical symbolism. The two faces are identical, and are two and a half meters in diameter. They each have 24 golden sun-rays surrounded by a blue starry night. A lamb is on the end of the a single needle – the lamb is included in the heraldry of the city of Rouen. Above the face is a sphere of about 30 cm that shows the phases of the moon. At the bottom of the face is an opening that indicates the days of the week, Monday is represented by the Moon, Tuesday by Mars, Wednesday by Mercury for Wednesday, Thursday by Jupiter, Venus by Friday, Saturday by Saturn and Apollo indicates Sunday.

Most people marvel at the clock and then walk on by, not knowing that they can take a tour of the clock ‘behind the scenes’, as it were. At the base of the belfry you will find the entrance to the museum, often obscured by throngs of shoppers and tourists. The museum is open Tuesdays to Sundays throughout the year; in the afternoons only (2 – 6pm) from November to March, and 10am – 1pm and 2 – 7pm from April to October. The tour takes the visitor through the pavilion and the belfry, where you get to see the dials room, the bells chamber, and the clockmaster’s workshop and flat. From the top of the belfry you get to see an outstanding view of the city of Rouen. The audio-guided tour lasts about 40 minutes.

Rouen is only 40 minutes from Basse Copette, ideal for anyone looking for a B&B or self-catering cottage in a more rural setting near Rouen.

There is much to see and do in Rouen, with some great restaurants and good shops, including a branch of the famous Paris department store, Galleries Lafayette. Some other articles on this website of attractions in Rouen:

Chabichou du Poitou

Slices of Chabichou du Poitou, ready for the grill

Grilled Chabichou du Poitou

For today’s cheese I have decided to try a new goat’s cheese, Chabichou du Poitou (which is also known as Chabichou). This cheese has a natural rind, with a firm and creamy texture. While I like goat’s cheese, I tend to prefer it cooked. I did try the cheese raw (after all this is a challenge), and I did enjoy it – it is very creamy. But, I did prefer it cooked (I grilled it on slices of tomato for about 15 minutes) on a salad. And a glass of Sauvignon Blanc to go with it was wonderful!

Chabichou du Poitou was granted AOC status in 1990, thanks in part to the efforts of Ségolène Royal. The AOC area takes in south Haut-Poitou – the south of Vienne, the Deux-Sèvres and the north of the Charente.

My kind of cheese: Tomme de Savoie

I think this would be a good cheese to use in dishes that require a thick cheese sauce, particularly something like a macaroni cheese. In fact, I can not wait to try just that.

The cheese is made in three communes that are found in the Savoie and Haute-Savoie Departments, in the Rhône-Alpes region of eastern France. And in 1996 Tomme de Savoie was awarded Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP) status.

Read about my 365 French Cheese Challenge … and stick around to see if after 365 days Rocamadour is still my favourite French cheese.

Tour de France, 2012.

I chose a spot just outside of the town of Breteuil; it just so happened I chose a spot right next to a couple from Cornwall. They really made the experience for me as they knew quite a bit and had already seen it a few times in the last few days. And so the three hours passed quite quickly. First to come by is ‘la caravane’ – these are the sponsors vehicles – handing out free goodies. That took very near an hour to pass by, and really is quite entertaining – as some of my photographs below attest I hope. And then it is the main event, the cyclists. And the old adage, don’t blink or you miss it, really is apt here. I was amazed at how noisy that brief moment was, the loud sound of the bicycle, the helicopters above, the cars, and of course every body cheering the cyclists on. It was great fun!

A simple snack this evening – Saint-Nectaire with wholegrain bread and a sweet chutney

Saint-Nectaire from the Auvergne region of France

I can see why the official website has the following: “Le Saint-Nectaire, nectar de la nature”. This is definitely one I would have again!

Read about my 365 French Cheese Challenge … and stick around to see if after 365 days Rocamadour is still my favourite French cheese.

Rocamadour cheese

Grilled Rocamadour on a walnut and mixed leaf salad

The Medieval town of Rocamadour, clinging to the cliffside © Patrick Clenet

Although named after the town of Rocamadour, the AOC for this cheese includes the entire Lot Department, as well as a few surrounding areas, including neighbouring communes in the following departments: Aveyron, Corrèze, Dordogne, and Tarn-et-Garonne.

Read about my 365 French Cheese Challenge … and stick around to see if after 365 days Rocamadour is still my favourite French cheese.

Two forms of Neufchâtel cheese

Today’s tasting: salade de Neufchâtel

For something different place a few small coeur de Neufchâtel under the grill for about 15 minutes or until they are soft, with a runny interior. Then place them on a plate of lettuce, using a balsamic vinegar reduction as a dressing with some red current jelly on the side.

Mini ‘Coeur de Neufchâtel’ on lettuce

Read about my 365 French Cheese Challenge …